Niacinamide efficacy in skin therapy: The multitasking marvel for glowing skin – A comprehensive literature review

Niacinamide composition

Chemically referred to as pyridine-3-carboxamide, niacinamide is a water-soluble amide derivative of Vitamin B3, having a variety of modes of action that have been documented in the literature.^[6] This active component ranges in concentration from 2% to 5% in several dermatological and cosmetic compositions.^[7] This molecule participates in several biological oxidation–reduction processes and is naturally present in human cells as a precursor of the codehydrogenases NAD and nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate.^[8] However, the exact mode of action in treating skin conditions or managing pigmentation and aging of the skin is unclear. Furthermore, it is uncertain if nicotinamide’s effectiveness stems from its direct action or from its indirect action as a precursor to other active metabolites^[9] [Figure 1].

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Figure 1:

Niacinamide composition.

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Niacinamide benefits in skincare

Niacin has two potential forms used, namely niacinamide and nicotinic acid. According to numerous studies, niacinamide’s natural properties make it a useful treatment for acne because of its multifaceted role in reducing flare-ups.^[10] It has been seen to be useful for managing rosacea symptoms. Overall, niacinamide can overcome several major issues related to skin aging, positioning itself as a multipurpose functional component in skin rejuvenation. Despite transdermal delivery challenges, new formulations and administration are promising to improve future cosmeceutical applications of niacinamide.^[11]

Niacinamide is well-known to act with nitric oxide synthase activity. Due to its potent antioxidant activity, niacinamide dampens this natural phenomenon, decreasing sallowness of the skin, with proven efficacy in clinical studies enrolling Caucasian females.^[12] Furthermore, it was well tolerated by the skin along with the refinement in the skin yellowing (sallowness).^[13] Sebum production reduction, cutaneous extracellular matrix, and skin barrier enhancement are also done by this component. Niacinamide is well-known for its anti-inflammatory properties. It also possesses antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral activity.^[12]

This component possesses anti-melanogenic action, which is dependent on dose and is seen to be reversible.^[12] According to a study, it was found that niacinamide provided significant improvements in spots of hyperpigmentation, red blotchiness, and erythema.^[5,13] Niacinamide may help with a number of skin disorders since it stimulates deoxyribonucleic acid repair and cellular energy processes.^[10] A personalized approach of using niacinamide and sea daffodil-based products according to the patient’s skin types and skin conditions is essential to remove blemishes and dark spots and improve skin brightness.^[14]

Niacinamide has also been used extensively as a multifunctional antiaging ingredient in cosmeceuticals.^[12] The photoprotective nature of niacinamide can help to explain its nonmelanoma and melanoma preventive actions. According to a study, it was found that niacinamide provided significant improvements in fine lines/wrinkles or texture.^[13] Several studies have showcased niacinamide’s efficacy for stimulating various other components, such as collagen, elastin, and ceramide production. Thus, niacinamide may improve cutaneous extracellular matrix quality by acting at a cellular level, thereby reversing apparent aging signs.^[12]

Niacinamide has long been used as an active ingredient in anti-hair loss preparations. There are few studies, however, on the efficacy and underlying mechanisms of niacinamide for anti-hair loss that have been reported. Data demonstrate that niacinamide could promote hair growth, possibly by preventing premature catagen entry and cell senescence of human dermal papilla cells via down-regulation of dickkpof protein-1, p16, and p21, leading to elongation of the anagen phase with increased versican expression^[15] [Figure 2].

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Figure 2:

Benefits of niacinamide.

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Niacinamide applications in diseases

Niacinamide or nicotinamide is utilized in systemic medicine and dermatology. Historically, it has been utilized to prevent and treat pellagra, which is marked by skin irritation, diarrhea, and dementia, while avoiding the flushing associated with niacin.^[12] Niacinamide is beneficial for the skin in more ways than simply when it is lacking. Topical formulations help with disorders such as atopic dermatitis, rosacea, psoriasis, melasma, and acne vulgaris.^[9] The use of a niacinamide-containing commercial cream resulted in measurable improvements in skin hydration and tone. A key strength of this study is its focus on real-life product application, offering practical insights into the performance of commercial skincare products under typical user conditions.^[16] They also reduce oxidative stress and improve signs of photoaging, such as hyperpigmentation, fine wrinkles, and uneven tone.^[9] Without functioning as a conventional keratolytic agent, Niacinamide (NIA) has a clear interaction with keratin, increasing the distance between keratin monomers in dry conditions.^[17]

In addition, niacinamide shows potential beyond dermatological uses. It may function as an adjuvant therapy in arthritis (anti-inflammatory), chronic kidney disease (phosphate reduction), type 1 diabetes (b-cell preservation), neurological disorders, and malignancy prevention.^[18] It’s shown clinical performance, a superior safety profile, a wide range of skin type applicability, and compatibility with other anti-aging treatments, which make it so appealing. Niacinamide is perfect for a variety of formulation applications due to its water solubility, chemical stability, and absence of photosensitizing qualities.^[19] It appears to be a successful medication for autoimmune illnesses, especially systemic lupus erythematosus and its associated dermatological manifestations. Clinical trials for discoid lupus erythematosus show significant decreases in the topical application of 2–4% niacinamide improves inflammation, scaling, and overall outcomes, with the 4% formulation proving to be more advantageous despite causing greater discomfort.^[3] The metabolic profile in cutaneous lupus erythematosus shows that the NAD⁺ pathway is not working properly, which suggests that nicotinamide supplementation could be beneficial^[20] [Figure 3 and Table 1].

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Figure 3:

Applications of niacinamide.

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Niacinamide products and combinations

Niacinamide helps aging skin look and feel smoother, reduces wrinkles and fine lines, and keeps the skin from drying out and drooping.^[7] Niacinamide can enter the human skin’s percutaneous layer when applied topically.^[5] Topical niacinamide formulations have demonstrated a number of positive effects on skin protection and health. With less penetration, the transethosomes and carrageenan polyvinylpyrrolidone hydrogels (nanogels) effectively enhance niacinamide skin deposition.^[6] In fact, carrageenan may help the skin in a number of ways. It has been used in cosmetic products for its thickening and water-retaining qualities in addition to its moisturizing ones. Based on their drug diffusion characteristics, gel formulations with niacinamide and calendula oil combined with carrageenan as a gelling agent were found to be the best and can be utilized for additional formulation and research. When compared to the drug release profile of the pure drug, all gel formulations demonstrated more than 60% drug release within 180 min, which was much better. According to the findings of Maddukuri et al., calendula oil and medications that cure acne can be combined to create gels.^[21] When compared to a pure drug, this approach could improve the medication’s antimicrobial spectrum by more than 1.5 times because of improved permeability.^[21] In addition, using halloysite nanotube systems for topical formulations in skincare can enhance the favorable adsorption of active principles such as niacinamide.^[22] Niacinamide is one of the most chosen active ingredients in over 600 dermatological products, ranging from 45 various categories such as shampoos, skin moisturizers, and cleansing formulas with different applicative methods and combinations with other ingredients.^[7] Body scrubs can contain a gentle cream that has a coarse exfoliating ingredient and niacinamide at a therapeutically appropriate concentration.^[5] In individuals with moderate atopic dermatitis, the use of body emollients containing niacinamide can greatly enhance skin barrier function, quality of life, and clinical symptoms.^[15]

The assessment of niacinamide distribution is equally important to be understood, which can be done by tape stripping and confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS). There are several benefits of using spectroscopic techniques to evaluate drug distribution to the skin. CRS integrates the concepts of Raman spectroscopy and confocal microscopy with regard to in vivo measurements. The authors of these investigations looked into the non-invasive depth profiling of stratum corneum water content and other endogenous components, such as natural moisturizing factor, using CRS.^[23] Therefore, due to its capacity to replenish cellular energy and the lack of adverse effects at the daily acceptable dosage, these results collectively point to a positive function for its administration in preventing aging and other illnesses^[24] [Figure 4].

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Figure 4:

Niacinamide product and combination.

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